Once in the lift, you have the choice of getting off at either Level 5, the restaurant, or Level 6, the cocktail bar. They’re missing a trick here and should revert to the old procedure in the days this was The Modern, forcing you to get off on the top floor and enter through the attractive bar instead. As it is, most diners are probably unaware of the fantastic bar on the top floor, which, in its previous guise, gained the top floor of Urbis the reputation of serving some of the best drinks in town.

Another advantage of forcing you off at the top floor, is that you have to walk down the attractive sweeping staircase, during which you'll get the best view this rather badly designed but aesthetically pleasing building has to offer.

Like most diners, we got off on the fifth floor and entered directly into the busy restaurant where we received a rather inhospitable welcome from a (presumably) Spanish waiter. He hesitated on whether they could accomodate us without a reservation, leaving us waiting awkwardly as he went to see if it was OK. Fortunately, the friendly manager, who was looking after a large birthday party on the table next to where we were left standing like gatecrashers at a private bash, took control in his absence, quickly leading us to a table for two set against the colourful wall in the back of the restaurant.

From here on in, the service was excellent throughout with Alex, a familiar face to those who have dined at Obsidian, and a young Slovakian girl, Zuzana, providing a very efficient, professional and incredibly friendly service. Whilst dishes were notably slow to come out of the kitchen, the waitresses offered some of the best service we've enjoyed in town for a long time.

Whilst the inexplicable frosted glass on this Ian Simpson designed building obscures some otherwise great views, you can’t help but feel Kaleido have missed a trick with the décor. Huge white booth sofas are attractively separated with drapes, however these face into the restaurant instead of looking out of the windows with their somewhat panoramic view of the city. Our table was pressed tight against the wall with the panorama obstructed by the booth adjacent to us. Not that we were complaining as we got to look at the two beautiful girls dining in it instead. An experience soured only by the fact an ex-girlfriend was with a date on the table next to us and looking equally as stunning. Hardly the restaurant's fault though, especially with my track record.

The wine list is incredibly impressive, easily one of the best in town, with prices generally double to triple what you'd pay in the stores. Anywhere with a 2005 bottle of Trimbach Riesling Clos Sainte Hune gets a huge thumbs up from us. It’s a tiny vineyard from the Alsace’s premium maison, which is located on a small hill between Ribeauville and Hunewihr. We've stopped to sunbathe and picnic in the middle of it at least six times on cycling trips in the past 12 months alone. £175 for a bottle which usually retails at £100 is an acceptable mark up too although, we're guessing, it's more likely to remain in the cellar, gaining value, than be ordered. We opted for a cheaper 2005 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Reserve (£47 on the menu, circa £22 in the shops), our favourite wine from our favourite wine house, bar none.

For the record, house wines start at £18 from Poggio della Quercia, Italy (£6 in the shops). Trebbiano IGT Rubicone or Sangiovese IGT Rubicone were £3.95 by the glass and very nice indeed. The Ugni Blanc from La Cadence, France (£3.95 a glass) was also a fantastic house wine and extremely refreshing. They've done a great job with the winelist and we'll certainly be adding Kaleido's bar to our regular nights out to try even more of these.

As for the food, this was the third time we've visited, once for bar food - which was fantastic but expensive - and once with the highly celebrated Ian Matfin, Head Chef at Aiden Byrne's Church Green in Lymm. That occasion was very reflective of this experience.

The starters were absolutely beautiful to look at but not much larger than you'd expect from an amuse bouche. They tasted fantastic however and left us wanting more. The Confit Salmon with Pickled Fennel was delightful, literally melting in the mouth. The Seared Venison was equally well executed. It's debatable if the 20 minute wait was worth the two seconds it took us to eat them though.

Last time we visited, dining from the a la carte menu, two of the three mains were visually stunning but extremely small. This was not the case with the Sunday Lunch menu and the size of the portions were just as impressive as the presentation. So much so, a photo of the Roast Beef & Yorkshire Pudding which we uploaded to Facebook almost seemed to get more likes and positive comments than the Harlem Shake.